Tuesday 23 August 2011

It's All in the Details

"Men [and women] who wish to know about the world must learn about it in its particular details."
Heraclitus


We've now been in Lima for over three weeks, and we've already experienced so much. We just finished the process of choosing courses, so we'll tell you some about that in this post. After that, we thought it'd be fun to show some prices of things, since it's a different world of payment here. And finally, since Paul loves fun facts so much, we've made a list of various facts you'll probably find quite interesting.


Courses


We've been very busy in the past week choosing our courses. All courses are taught in Spanish of course, since it's a Peruvian university. The credit system here is also different than in the US. A 2-credit course here is equal to a 3-credit course in the US, while a 4-credit course here is equal to a 5-credit course in the US. The college structure is different as well. Many Peruvian students start college at age 15 or 16, spending their first two years doing general studies. After this each student declares a major, and is required to stick with that major throughout college. Just about every US student would pass out if we had to do that. Luckily, we don't!


As of the 22nd we registered for our courses, so for those of who are interested, here they are:


Caitlyn's Courses
Advanced Academic Editing and Peruvian Culture (required by IFSA)
Peruvian Social Reality (required by IFSA)
Linguistics 305: Sociolinguistics
Anthropology 218: Quechua


Paul's Courses
Advanced Academic Editing and Peruvian Culture (required by IFSA)
Peruvian Social Reality (required by IFSA)
Anthropology 157: Urban Anthropology
Anthropology 210: Anthropology of Religion
Anthropology 218: Quechua


You might notice that we both are taking Quechua. Paul needed a credit in linguistic anthropology, so he looked into the class, and liked it so much he invited Caitlyn to join! It may seem crazy to start learning about another culture, and it's language, in a language (Spanish) we're still trying to perfect. But in fact it seems to help us get better at speaking Spanish, while also learning about Quechua. Caitlyn's Sociolinguistics course goes perfectly with her Linguistics major, while Paul's Urban Anthropology and Anthropology of Religion courses go perfectly with his Anthropology major.


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Prices (Peru vs. USA)


Note: all prices are approximate, but close to exact.


Food:
| most food and meals are much cheaper than in the US
| higher end foods inflate to equal dollar amounts
| higher end restaurants inflate to about equal dollar amounts
| bottle of Coke........................................................................   1.2 soles (45 cents)
| vending machine candy bars, chips, drinks...........................   80 centavos (25 cents)
| fine dining restaurant meal...................................................    50-60 soles ($20-22)
| lunch with drink, salad, entrée, and dessert..........................    11 soles ($3.50)


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Clothes:
| some are cheaper, some inflate to similar prices
| as in the US, prices depend on the brand
| name-brand shoes are much more expensive
| Caitlyn's new jeans......................................................   80 soles ($30)
| Paul's new sweater......................................................   20 soles ($7.50)
| Pair of Vans (which we did not buy)............................   230 soles ($85)


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Electronics:
| the cheaper end is about the same
| the higher end is much more expensive
| Paul's basic alarm clock........................   40 soles ($15)
| Basic cell phones..................................   70 soles ($25)
| Touchscreens, Smartphones.................  2,200+ soles ($800+)!


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Transportation:
| prices are much cheaper overall
| combis take longer but are the cheapest
| taxis are private and quicker, but cost more
| fuel prices are much higher
| Combi Ride, Our House to Campus.....................................   1.70 soles (60 cents)
| Taxi Ride, Our House to Campus........................................   10-12 soles ($3.50)                        
| 1 Gallon of Gas...................................................................   16 soles ($6)


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Miscellaneous:
| some are equal, while others are much lower
| Paragliding..................................................   155 soles ($55)
| Fountain Park (from our last post)...............   4 soles ($1.50)
| Park of Legends (Zoo)..................................    9 soles ($3.25)
| Movie Theater weekends.............................    24 soles ($9)
| Move Theater Tuesdays..............................     9 soles ($3.25)


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Needless to say, we go to the movie theater every Tuesday. It's a very nice one with stadium seating, cushy seats, and better-than-average screen quality. Movies are shown both dubbed over into Spanish and in English with subtitles (we watch the latter). Also, it's built into the side of a massive cliff, so you're technically in a cave inside a hill. How is that not cool?


Fun Facts


Temperature:
| there is no heating/cooling - even the nicer parts, where we live, have none
| Lima, like all oceanside cities, hardly changes in temperature
     > it goes from 60 at night to 65 in the day - anyone from Ohio would think that’s crazy

| it's also very humid, as seen below

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Time:

| natives refer to time as Peruvian Time -- everything it about 15 minutes behind schedule
     > you'd think scheduling 15 minutes ahead of time would work, but it doesn't
| on that note, for classes at PUCP are in the same style
     > if class starts at 4, the professor usually arrives around 4:10, and class starts at 4:15
     > classes will either start late, or finish 10-20 minutes early, or have a break in the middle
     > Paul’s 3-hour course meets 10-11, then is on break 11-11:25, then goes until 1
     > during class breaks you can get coffee, go to the bathroom, talk with friends, anything, so long as you're back

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Social Interaction:
| the norm when saying hi/bye is for girls to touch cheeks
     > guys shake hands with other guys, but touch cheeks with girls
| most people here are very nice, and welcoming, and understanding
     > in fast food restaurants, and the school dining halls, workers give very good service
     > when you finish, or go to throw away a tray, a worker will offer to throw it away for you
     > this happens occasionally/rarely in the US, but literally almost always here
     > on a combi you may overpay on accident - most will give you change back even if you don't know you deserve it
| on the other side, while people are never mean, some will try and take advantage of you
     > on a combi you may overpay if you don't have exact change
     > sometimes when you ask for change the person will try and trick you into not getting any

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Public Spaces:
| things are much more informal on the streets, a fact of it being both Peru and a big city
     > there are beggars, street vendors, money-exchangers (dollars to soles, vice versa) on the streets
     > people sell food/newspapers/novelty items to cars, while people drive
     > when cars stop at lights the people walk between them (or get on combis) and sell
| many people let their dogs run around without leashes
     > people here actually understand dogs, and how to treat/train them
     > all dogs we've seen never run away, or bite, or fight, and are very city-smart
     > in our part of town there are few, but in much of the city there are many stray dogs

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Food:
| they have yogurt for drinking, thinner but just as tasty
     > you can get normal stuff, but our families usually have drinkable stuff
| some of the most common drinks here are peach, pear, and mango juice
     > Paul’s favorite fruit is peach, Caitlyn’s is mango, so it’s working great for us!
| cinnamon seems to be a favorite here, in nearly every kind of food/drink
     > we’re both convinced Peru consumes 75% of the world’s cinnamon supply
     > many things have cinnamon in them - desserts of course, meats, pastas, drinks, even gelatins               
     > more often than not it works well and is very good, but sometimes it does not work at all
| both our families store milk, and eggs, in the cabinets
     > perhaps it's a fridge corporation conspiracy that makes us put our stuff in fridges?
     > the only milk we’ve had is 1%, but it’s creamier than US 2%, and tastes very much better
| nearly every single meal (no exaggeration) is carbs and protein, and nothing else
     > every single school lunch is rice, a roll, meat, and sometimes potatoes as well
     > most of our dinners at home are rice and/or potatoes, with meat
     > Caitlyn’s mom usually makes her a salad on the side, Paul´s usually makes him a soup
| here people eat a very large lunch at 2 or 3, then no other meals for the rest of the day, just snacks
     > this is the point in which fruits and vegetables enter the diet, in snacking
| fruit and vegetables here are usually local/regional, and much cheaper
     > 2 pounds of strawberries costs 5 soles (about $1.75)!

[thanks to]

Saturday 13 August 2011

Getting to Know Lima

In the past week we've been travelling a lot around Lima and getting to know different parts of the city. Our program director likes to say that there are "many Limas" because the city varies so much from district to district. So far we've really only experienced the nicer parts of the city, but later we'll be working with non-governmental organizations, so we'll see what life is like in the poorer areas. Here is some of what we've seen so far:

Pontificia Universidad Católica del Perú (PUCP)
So far we've visited the university we'll be attending 3 times: the first to see the campus and open bank accounts, the second to attend international student orientation and the third to attend course fairs. PUCP has a very nice campus, much nicer than many people would expect in the middle of a city. Each facultad (department) has a small courtyard with plants, flowers and places to sit, and most of the buildings have a modern style. There's lots of grass with perfectly maintained flower beds, and interesting sculptures all over campus. Oh, and we can't forget to mention... there's deer! Yeah, you read that right, deer on a college campus in the middle of Lima. We were all so surprised when we first walked onto campus and saw several small deer (much smaller that what we're used to in Ohio) grazing in the main quad. They're really used to being around humans, so it's easy to get super close to them, and they don't get scared and stand stock-still like normal deer do. In addition to the cute deer roaming around, the campus has a comfortable and friendly feel with a beautiful environment. We love it! Here are some pictures:

One of the nice courtyards inside many of the class buildings. 
This is the Humanities building, where Caitlyn will be spending most of her time.
The Inca Road! This has been here since the 1500s, or earlier, and remains today.
Needless to say, it's quite incredible that we get to see these ruins even today, right inside the city.
One of the many deer around campus. This particular one had a connection with Paul.
You can't feed them anything, since they're bred and live here, on a "specific diet" of every plant on campus.
One of the many pavilions all around campus. They have unique architecture.
Just some of the campus landscaping. Here, like everywhere else in Lima, the grass and plants are wonderfully designed.


El Centro (Histórico)
El Centro Historico is the downtown area of Lima where many of the historical and governmental buildings are, such as the Casa de Gobierno (House of Government, Peru's version of the White House), Catedral de Lima (Cathedral of Lima) and Congreso (Congress). Most of these buildings have a very Spanish/European style, and if you saw a picture and didn't know that it was taken in Peru, you'd probably say it was taken in Europe. The Barrio Chino (China Town) is also located in El Centro. Peru has a high Chinese population due to the influx of Chinese immigrants who mainly came for work on the railroads in the 1800s. Through the mixture of Chinese and Peruvian cultures was born a delicious creation--chifa! The word comes from Chinese immigrants calling their children to "come eat" ("chifa"). Chifa (chee-fuh) is a style of food that can only be found in Peru because it blends both Chinese and Peruvian flavors. The most popular chifa dish is called chaufa (chow-fuh) which is a variation of fried rice.


We can't even remember what all was on this dish -- it was at least 10 different things we tried.
Also note the drink in the background, which is a combination of Inca Kola and Coca Cola.

El Centro is very different from Miraflores (the area where we live). There's way more people, even more traffic, and much more poverty. Walking through the streets of downtown Lima, you will see many people (adults and kids alike) begging on the street, a sight you rarely see in Miraflores. After our group went out to eat for chifa in el Barrio Chino, we had tons of food left over, so we boxed up the leftovers and took them with us to give to people who were in need. The two of us had the opportunity to take a bag full of boxes of food to an old man we saw sitting next to a building, and he was incredibly grateful. It made us happy to see the smile on his face, and to know that the food had not been wasted but instead was going to someone who needed it.

Because of all of the people on the streets and the increased amount of poverty, El Centro isn't the safest place in Lima, so we couldn't always have our camera out. We were able to take pictures of most of the cool stuff (all of the historic buildings and such) but we had to keep it put away in other areas, including el Barrio Chino. Here are some of the pictures we were able to take:

La Plaza Mayor, in the center of the historical downtown district.
La Catedral de Lima, in La Plaza Mayor. Francisco Pizarro is buried here, along with many others.
A shot of La Plaza Mayor, with La Casa de Gobierno in the background.
La Casa de Gobierno is where the Peruvian President lives, so basically the Peruvian White House.
La Plaza Mayor with La Catedral de Lima in the background.
Us enjoying the city!
You can't see it, but that hill in the background has huge "PPK" letters written on it. It's the initials of a political candidate.


Barranco
A few days ago we traveled with our group to a restaurant called Rustica in the Barranco district of Lima for some criolla (cree-oh-yuh), or typical Peruvian food. The restaurant provided us with a delicious buffet of many Peruvian dishes, including lomo asado (grilled beef tenderloin with onions), tamales, and huacaina (wah-kigh-ee-nuh, a common Peruvian sauce made with ahi pepper, milk, oil, and cheese). Caitlyn has even learned to love potatoes covered in huacaina! After leaving Rustica, our group took a little walk around Barranco, which is considered the "bohemian district." There's a bridge in one area of Barranco that when you walk across it for the first time, you have to hold your breath and think of a wish! We all got to do it--hopefully our wishes come true!

The biblioteca (library) in Barranco. Also note the great tiling on the walkways.

The Barranco Bridge. We all held our breaths and made our wishes!

This church is being remodeled. The front is new and great; the back is old but rustic.

A statue, along with the cobblestone road and sidewalks.

Everyone relaxing around the bridge. Paul on the left looking down below.

Mirabus Tour
Last night we got to participate in the last group activity of orientation--a nighttime tour around Lima in a double decker bus (we've both always wanted to ride in one)! The bus toured around many places that we had already visited, such as El Centro, but it was completely different to see everything again at night. The city was completely transformed. The coolest part of the bus tour was when we were able to get off at La Parque de las Aguas (Park of the Waters? Doesn't really translate well to English, hah). La Parque de las Aguas consists of dozens of really fun, artistic water fountains. The main one that we spent our hour watching is nick-named El Laberinto (The Labyrinth) because many people like to try to get to the center without getting wet. Lots of people from our group brought extra clothes (or even bathing suits!) so that they could play in it and get completely soaked. Neither of us tried to make it to the center, but we did get inside of it without getting too wet! The park also projects laser shows, lights, and even videos on the biggest fountain in the park, which was really neat. We definitely want to go back again when we have more time to spend, and for 4 soles (about $1.50) it's too good a deal to pass up!


Us being weird in front of the first fountain.

Caitlyn caught in the Labyrinth! Walls of water, but you don't get wet unless you're over them.

Paul caught inside during the most intense cycle of the Labyrinth!

The water tunnel! You could walk through without ever getting a drop of water on you.

The main fountains in the park. At night they have light shows, as you can see here.

The Palacio de Justicia. Natives call it the Palace of Injustice, because the justice system here is less than great.

La Plaza Mayor, with La Catedral de Lima in the back, at night.

Jiron de la Union, a street made only for walking. It was packed!

Sunday 7 August 2011

Settling In

After being in Lima for nearly a week, we're beginning to orient ourselves to our homes, the neighborhood (Miraflores) and the city. For this post we're going to focus on our homes as well as the area around where we live. Also, a side note for those who are curious: we write each blog together.

Homes

As we said before, we've been blessed to have houses literally right next to each other. They're both full houses, but part of one building. We get to leave together, travel together, and come back together, which is very nice. So onto the details.

We live on Calle Madrid (Kigh-yay Madrid, or in English Madrid Street), near Plaza Bolognesi (Plah-sah Boh-loh-nyes-ee, Bolognesi Plaza). Our address is the same, but Caitlyn is B and Paul is C. When we approach there is a gate, which requires a key to open. Then there is a walkway, leading to our doors. Each door has an iron gate in front of it, which requires another key to open. Once you get to the actual door (you guessed it) two more keys are required. In total, four keys. But hey, safety is safety; we don't mind. Here's a walkthrough:

The gate. Paul's host-mom painted the address plaque.


The walkway once inside. There are five houses in total inside, and ours are the two at the end.

Caitlyn's side!


Paul's side!


Ladies first, so here's Caitlyn's home.

The living room.


El comedor (dining room).


La cocina (kitchen).


La terraza (patio).


The picture that Caitlyn brought as a gift for her host-mom. She put it on the wall!
For those of you who don't know, this picture is of The Golden Lamb, a famous restaurant in our hometown.


El baño (bathroom).


The bedroom, complete with little stuffed panda.


Next is Paul's home.

The bedroom's first this time.


The other half of the bedroom.


The third floor. Part of it is the laundry room, and a guest bedroom, and this part is the studio where Paul's host-mom makes her paintings.
Paul's host-dad also does his work at home up here.


The third bathroom, which is for Paul alone, with the sink and walls painted by Paul's host-mom.


The wonderful spiraling staircase, going from the first floor to the third. Caitlyn's house has one as well!


The living room. Sorry for the bad lighting in this one.


The dining room. The plates on the wall were all painted by Paul's host-mom.


The patio.


The kitchen, and breakfast nook.


Some of the work Paul's host-mom has done. Pretty amazing, yeah?


(Our Side of) Miraflores

As we've repeatedly mentioned, the district of Lima we live in is called Miraflores (Mee-da-flo-rays). It, and the district next door called San Isidro (Sahn Ees-eed-roh), are the nicest parts of the city. Miraflores goes all along the cliffs, on the western side of the city. Our homes are located just a block (literally) from the cliffside. All along the cliffs there are parks and recreational areas: dog parks, skate parks, tennis courts, shopping areas, picnic areas, and more. When we walk to the IFSA Office we walk along the parks, and every day you see people jogging, skating, biking, watching the ocean, and enjoying the area. Despite it having been cloudy and a bit chilly every day since we've been here, it's a beautiful place.


El Parque Raimondi. We loved it, and we were later told it's known as one of the most beautiful in all of South America.


The lighthouse at one end of the park. Also note the paragliders, of which there are many. We can't wait to do it!


Caitlyn in front of the lighthouse, next to one of the many great beds of flowers.
The landscaping at this park, and all of the parks we've been to, is incredible (we think).


This man was some sort of Dog Master, because his two dogs were perfectly trained. He was playing fetch with them.
We see very, very many dogs around where we live. We love it. Most are off leashes and run around wherever they want, and are very nice.


There are areas in the parks and along the sidewalks that are specifically designed for people to work out in. Basically an outdoor, free gym.
Here you can see Paul's raw power and athleticism.

At this point we were going to show you all a video, so you could get a better concept of the area, but we found out it takes about 150 years to upload one video, so we're not going to do that. But it's okay! Pictures are basically as good.

Further down the coast is Larco Mar, a shopping and entertainment site. Remember Mango's, the restaurant from the first post? It's in Larco Mar. The entire place is built into the side of the cliffs, below ground level but with the open sky above. There's also a movie theater here, and for those of you who know us, you know we'll be there a lot. Especially on Tuesdays, when shows are 9 soles (about $3)!

One way to get down to Larco Mar. Also a great opportunity to observe a man attempting to pass off a nose pick as a scratch.

Part of Larco Mar. There are solitary vendors, as well as restaurants, stores, theaters, and more.

Another shot. Note the Gelaeria (Gelato shop) on the side and Sol Alpaca (alpaca store) in the back. These are both popular themes here.

We visited our university for the first time Friday, as well as the historic part of downtown Saturday. We'll save all of that for another post, so make sure you keep reading! Chao!