Day 1 (9.21.11)
The day we left for Cusco we got up bright and early and took a taxi to the airport around 6:45. Our flight went well and we arrived in sunny Cusco at 10:30 and headed to the hotel. The day before we arrived as well as the first day there we had to take medicine to prevent us from getting altitude sickness because Cusco is 11,200 feet above sea level! When we arrived at the hotel, we all drank mate de coca, which is a tea made using coca leaves (they come from the same plant used to make cocaine). The people in the Andes have been using coca leaves for hundreds of years to cure many different ailments, including altitude sickness. It wasn't until people turned the plant into a drug that there was anything wrong associated with it. After drinking our tea, we all took naps in order to let our bodies adjust to the altitude.
The rest of the day was spent visiting many different ruins around the edge of Cusco. To go to the ruins, we ended up driving about an additional 2,000 feet up the mountains! We were practically in outer space. We went to Sacsayhuaman, Qenqo, Pucapucara, and Tambomachay, but we don't really remember which ruins go with which names.
The first ruins we saw. Folklore says the fountains here are water from the Fountain of Youth. |
The next ruins. That statue is supposed to be a frog facing the sky. |
The most interesting ruin was definitely Sacsayhuaman (sock-sigh-wah-mahn). Many English speakers also refer to it jokingly as "Sexy Woman." Sacsayhuaman is a walled-in temple made of huge polished stones that are cut perfectly to fit together. There was also a giant "rock slide" near Sacsayhuaman, which we all slid down!
The rock slides near Saksayhuaman. It was fast, and hurt at the bottom, since you had to catch yourself from hitting the ground. |
Saksayhuaman. It used to be much larger, and covered in gold, before the Spanish pointlessly destroyed it all. |
Our last activity of the day before heading to dinner and bed was visiting a cathedral in Cusco. To the people who built the temple, Cusco was the center of the world, and this temple was built in the center of Cusco, therefore it was the center of the center. To take this idea even further, they placed a rock in the center of the temple, which represented the center of the center of the center. Basically, this means that it was a very important spot.
This was the center of the Sun Temple, which was the center of Cusco, which was the center of the Incan Empire. |
The leftover rebuilt parts of the temple after an earthquake in the 1350s. |
Day 2 (9.22.11)
Our second day we traveled 3 hours outside of Cusco deep into the Andes. The landscape was incredible, with huge mountains surrounding us and many different sparkling lakes. We arrived in a tiny rural town to visit some families who work with an organization called Sierra Productiva. Sierra Productiva helps rural Andean families to create gardens from which they can sustain their families as well as make a living by selling produce at the market. The organization helps them to improve their quality of life in many ways, helping them to create a system of heating water, giving them the tools to create separate bedrooms for their family members and much more.
The nice farmer showing us his plants, and guinea pigs, and greenhouse. |
The farmer's wife, showing us how she cooks without any electricity. She made delicious beans and corn for us all. |
The greenhouse used to grow plants that could never grow so high in the mountains. It was very hot inside -- the system works very well. |
After visiting the families we had lunch in another very small town, and we tried guinea pig, which is a very typical food in the sierra. It was actually very tasty, especially if you didn't think about it as a pet.
Our first time tasting cuy (coy, meaning guinea pig)! It's that chunk in the middle. |
We then traveled to a shelter for girls who generally come from abusive families or families who don't have the resources to take care of them. The girls were incredibly sweet, and the older girls in the group actually put on a really great dance show for us! We also had a "show" prepared for them, which consisted of singing a couple songs that we translated into Spanish. We spent the rest of the day playing, dancing, singing, and generally having fun with the girls. They are really good at doing hair, and they braided many of the girls' hair in our group into cool designs (including Caitlyn's!) At the end of the night, it took about 20 minutes for everyone to say goodbye because everyone was hugging everyone else. We wish we could visit them again.
The girls dancing for us all. They were really good. |
Two of the girls braiding Caitlyn's hair. It looked great when finished. |
Day 3 (9.23.11)
We began our day with a delicious breakfast and left Cusco in the bus with our bags for Aguas Calientes (we'll tell you what that is in a moment). We drove outside of Cusco and through the mountains to Aguana Cancha (ah-gwah-nah con-chuh), a llama/alpaca farm and production site for wool products. We were able to walk with and feed each of the four kinds of South American camels (llama, guanaco, alpaca, vicuña), which was really fun, as you can tell:
Paul and our friend Kaleigh managing to feed the elusive and very cute baby. |
Afterwards we drove further through the mountains to Pisac (pee-sock), an ancient Incan city and current-day town. We climbed up the mountainside along terraces and structures (much like Machu Picchu, as both were built by the Incans), learning a great deal about the site from our great tour guide Victor along the way. When we reached the top we were at 10,980 feet and Paul decided to climb even further up onto some peaks.
The Pisac Terraces. |
Victor explaining how the ruins were built up on the Pisac cliffs. |
After the ruins we ate lunch in the town and then were given time to explore the market there and purchase anything we liked. We were supposed to leave at 3:30 but a series of unfortunate events lead us to leaving at 4. We had planned to get to the next town, Ollantaytambo (oh-yawn-tie-tom-bow) by 4:30, but instead arrived at 4:50. Ollantaytambo is home to another set of Incan ruins as well as the train station to get to Aguas Calientes (meaning hot waters, because of the natural hot springs there), the town at the base of Machu Picchu. We were admitted to Ollantaytambo and our guide started showing us around, but the site closed at 5 and soon the guards were literally yelling at us to leave. Thankfully we had our guide, Victor, who stood up to and ignored the men, showing us as much as he could of the site before finally leaving. We were only able to see about half of the site, but even that was amazing. As a side note, Caitlyn fell down the last few stairs while climbing down the ruins, but managed to not break or sprain anything luckily.
The Ollantaytambo mountain. Can you see the face carved into the cliff? |
The Ollantaytambo ruins, with the town of Ollantaytambo below. |
After the ruins we had two hours before our train left, so we all got dinner in one of the many restaurants and diners in the town. The town is essentially a rest-stop between Cusco and Machu Picchu, and so is very oriented towards tourists and very filled with them. We rode the train to Aguas Calientes (the first time on a train for us both!) and finally made it to the hotel by about 11:30, getting to sleep by 12:30.
Day 4 (9.24.11)
You may wonder why we mentioned when we went to sleep, so we'll tell you. It's worth mentioning because we didn't sleep until 12:30, and had to wake up at 4:30 to leave by 5. So we were prepared for our busiest and most physical day with 4 hours of sleep. But that's alright, our excitement pulled us through!
We woke up, ate breakfast, got our bus tickets, and left at 5:15. The system is simple: an endless hoard of busses takes people from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu all day long, starting at 5:30. We got in line at 5:15, but were on the seventh bus. It may sound like there were a lot of people, and there were, but not nearly as much as there would be later in the day (hence the group waking up early). Arriving early allows you to both experience the sun rising over Machu Picchu as well as avoiding the droves of tourists who arrive later in the day around 10.
We rode the bus up to the site and were inside by about 6. It was surreal, to say the least. So quiet, so isolated, so real, and so amazing. We all took turns taking the classic Machu Picchu pictures and then began exploring the site. We also walked along a path to an old bridge used by the Incans, but the path was very skinny, right along the cliffs, usually with no railing, and we most certainly did not cross that bridge, because it was more like several boards hanging over thousands of feet of air rather than an actual bridge.
Our first view of Machu Picchu! |
The classic Machu Picchu shot. |
There were very few people there early in the morning -- it was quiet, peaceful and amazing. |
The "bridge" (really wooden boards) we hiked to. Scary! |
One of the most incredible views we've ever seen. This picture does no justice whatsoever. |
The other side of Machu Picchu. |
At 10 our group was scheduled to climb Huayna Picchu (wine-uh pee-choo), the tall mountain you always see connected to Machu Picchu. It's about 1,200 feet above Machu Picchu, which may not seem like much, but physical exertion in high altitudes is much harder due to the lesser amount of air. Climbing 1,200 feet of steep cliff is hard at sea level; doing it about 8,000 feet above sea level is a whole new story. The climb was fun, but is by all means dangerous. The paths are wide enough for two people to walk side-by-side, but generally have no railings, and go right along the edge of the mountain. Paul discovered his extreme fear of cliff edges; it seems he loves heights (such as being in planes and on top of mountains) but absolutely hates being on the edge of anything up high. We made it the very top, the very peak of the entire mountain, and sat and relaxed at the top. Caitlyn, a normal person without horrific phobias of falling to her death from a mountainside, wondered around the peak enjoying the views. Paul didn't budge from his sitting spot at the top, fearing a certain death. Deaths of course rarely happen, however, it's worth noting that each person who climbs the mountain is required to sign in and out, in case he or she were to fall to a grisly death and search parties were needed. As our Program Director would say, it's something you "check off the list" -- you do it once, and never again.
Huayna Picchu in the rising mist, calling us to climb it. |
Machu Picchu as seen from the peak of Huayna Picchu, |
After Huayna Picchu we slowly descended, which isn't as difficult aerobically as climbing, but is tougher on your muscles. We spent a bit more time at the site and then left around 12:30 for lunch down in Aguas Calientes, saying good bye to Machu Picchu for the time being. We returned to the town, ate lunch, then left to go to the hot springs just outside the town. We know what you're imagining: beautiful ponds of warm water bubbling from the mountainside, with steam rising and rocks all around you, at one with nature in a wonderfully-relaxing setting. We thought it'd be that way too; we were wrong. It was great, and it was naturally-heated spring water, but it was a tiled and very unnatural bathhouse sort of setting. Definitely fun though!
We left the baths, packed up, rode the train back to Ollantaytambo, then rode the bus back to Cusco. We got to bed around 1, after being up for 21 hours and having exerted about as much physical energy as we each do in a year. Worth it? No question.
Day 5 (9.25.11)
Our last full day in Cusco was luckily a free day, so we all tried to sleep in a little bit (since we had gotten up super early pretty much all of the previous days) and then explored Cusco a little bit. We went with all of the girls in our group to a chocolate museum, which was deliciously fun. They had lots of interesting facts about chocolate and its history, as well as free samples of cacao tea, which was pretty good. They also had a menu that we all ordered from. The two of us shared chocolate frio (cold chocolate) which was like chocolate milk except 1,000 times tastier.
The delicious chocolate frio. It may be hard to believe, but it's better than hot chocolate. |
We then dragged ourselves away from the chocolate museum to go to the Inca Mercado (Incan Market) to buy more gifts for ourselves and our families. The two of us both bought some Andean looking sweaters, and lots of stuff for our family and friends back home (not telling what we got you, though!).
After resting for a little bit in the hotel, we all went to a folkloric dance performance. It was traditional Andean dancing and music with fun traditional costumes and everything. There was one dance in which the women pretended to hit the men with these long furry things because the point of the song/dance was that "where there is love there is punishment." We thought that was funny.
The traditional dancers dancing away. |
That was our last night in Cusco. The next morning we returned to Lima, tired but full of experiences we'll never forget. It was an incredible trip, to say the very least.